{"id":166,"date":"2015-02-17T10:58:13","date_gmt":"2015-02-17T10:58:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.3riversarchery.com\/?p=166"},"modified":"2023-09-13T09:37:58","modified_gmt":"2023-09-13T14:37:58","slug":"beginners-guide-to-building-a-hickory-longbow","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.3riversarchery.com\/blog\/beginners-guide-to-building-a-hickory-longbow\/","title":{"rendered":"Beginner\u2019s Guide to Building a Hickory Longbow"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Beginner\u2019s
Beginner\u2019s guide to building a hickory longbow<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There is something enchanting about the idea of crafting something from scratch with one\u2019s own hands \u2013 looking at a piece of dead wood and seeing something more<\/em> and then breathing life into it again in the shape of a bow.<\/p>\n

Hundreds of thousands of people have made their own bow from wood, and they all started somewhere. Whether you\u2019re looking for a deeper connection to the sport of archery, trying to find your roots in hunting or you\u2019re looking for your next challenge in woodworking; today, you can start here.<\/p>\n

This build-along shows you how to craft a laminated flat-board longbow.<\/p>\n

For this build-along we will be aiming at constructing a 45# at 28\u201d hickory longbow.<\/p>\n

Pro-Tip: <\/strong>Don\u2019t be upset if your bow ends up pulling #20 at 28\u201d \u2013 it happens more than you\u2019d think. Being a bowyer takes practice and patience.<\/p>\n

What you\u2019ll need <\/strong><\/p>\n

    \n
  1. One\u00a01-1\/2″x1\u201dx72\u201d piece of hickory<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/li>\n
  2. Optional Osage riser blank<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/li>\n
  3. Hickory backing<\/li>\n
  4. Optional phenolic tip overlays<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/li>\n
  5. Unibond<\/a> Wood Glue<\/a><\/span><\/li>\n
  6. Clamps<\/li>\n
  7. Sandpaper (from 60 grit on up to 300)<\/li>\n
  8. Farrier’s Rasp<\/a><\/span><\/li>\n
  9. Draw knife<\/a><\/span><\/li>\n
  10. Band saw (optional, and can be completed without it, but this will make your life a whole lot easier)<\/li>\n
  11. A round file<\/a><\/span><\/li>\n
  12. Epoxy<\/a><\/span><\/li>\n
  13. Tillering stick<\/a><\/span> (sometimes called a tillering tree)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    For this build-along we\u2019ll be making a hickory longbow; although you might be more interested in making a recurve bow, that\u2019s not a great place for a beginner to start. Hickory is not the only bow wood you can use; in fact you will find countless videos and tutorials online showing you how to make a self-bow from red oak, a cheap, brittle wood that is easy to come by and easy to break. However, hickory is, perhaps, the best wood for a beginner to start with because it can handle compression and tension better than red oak. Further, hickory has very good performance and speed and it will be a little easier for a beginner to tiller because the wood is a little softer than red oak.<\/p>\n

    Pro-Tip:<\/strong> Hickory is also great because it can be backed by its own wood. You can take a 1\/8\u201d strip of lumber off with a table saw and flip it end for end and reverse it, then glue this piece back on and you are good to go.<\/p>\n

    There are no specific schematics or a plan to print, but I\u2019ll try my best to provide as detailed instructions as possible. However, \u00a0you can learn more from our \u00a0books<\/a><\/span>\u00a0 \u00a0and DVDs<\/a><\/span>.<\/p>\n

    Making the Rough out Marks <\/strong><\/p>\n

    Every piece of wood is different \u2013 for that reason, every bow is different, so there is no perfect guide or set of measurements, but hopefully these will help you along.<\/p>\n

    Find the middle of your bow stave (i.e. 36\u201d would be the middle of a 72\u201d bow).<\/p>\n

    Mark the middle.\u00a0\"Center<\/p>\n

    Mark 6\u201d on either side of the middle \u2013 this will eventually become your handle.\u00a0\"6<\/p>\n

    Mark 1\u201d on the limb side of your 6\u201d marks \u2013 these lines indicate where you will start your taper.\u00a0\"1<\/p>\n

    To mark the center of your bow, measure up 3\/4″ from the edge of the bow and put another mark perpendicularly on your middle mark. Now, you should have a + in the middle of your bow.\u00a0\"DSCN8953\"<\/p>\n

    Take a string that is longer than your bow and run it across your bow. Attach a weight on either end; you might find it easiest to use squeeze claps.\u00a0\"String<\/p>\n

    Move either end of the string on the tips of the bow until the string is resting as close to the middle of the ends of the bow as you possibly can, while ensuring the string is running straight through the center + of the bow.\u00a0\"String<\/p>\n

    Make a mark on either end of the bow directly under the string. Connect the marks on each tip, running through the center + on your bow.<\/p>\n

    At either tip of the bow, mark 1\/4″ on both sides of your center mark.\u00a0\"String<\/p>\n

    Connect each mark to their corresponding 1\u201d mark.<\/p>\n

    This should make a taper from your handle to the end of your bow.\"Shape\"<\/p>\n

    Next, starting from your 1\u201d mark, draw a line to 3\/8\u201d above the tip of the bow (this will shape the belly of your bow).\u00a0\"Back<\/p>\n

    Let\u2019s Get Cutting <\/strong><\/p>\n