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Welcome to the 3Rivers Archer's Den

Archer's Den

Welcome to the Archer's Den. Here you will find a gathering of traditional archery stories, tips and techniques, trophy animals taken with traditional bows, and plenty more. Stay a while and learn something. We hope you enjoy and even submit a trophy of your own, or leave a comment on a post.

Tag Archives: bowhunting

Take a Kid Hunting

There was never a point in my life where I thought, “When I have a baby I’m going to take them hunting with me before they can even walk.” But that’s sort of what happened.

When I got pregnant I assumed I would be able to leave Isabella with my husband while I hunted. As it turned out, my husband’s schedule wasn’t ideal and I had two choices. I could either: 

1) stay in the house with Isabella and not hunt,

Or

2) take Isabella with me.

Beka and Isabella walking the trail

I was extremely nervous the first few hunts…you really have to pack and prepare carefully with a little one. But, our hunts went far better than I expected. My daughter just turned a year old and is my favorite hunting buddy.

I get a lot of questions on social media on taking a baby/kid outdoors. I’m going to share my best tips here. All of this can apply to taking your child hunting, fishing, or simply hiking in the outdoors.

Garris Family out and about

1. Plan ahead. This is definitely BIG. Does your kid wake up early? Nap several times a day? Hunt around their schedules. Morning hunts worked far better for me than evening hunts as my daughter liked to be in bed by a certain time and would get fussy in the evening.

Beka and Isabella all wrapped up

2. Clothing. Make sure your kid is comfortable. If it’s cold, invest in quality cold weather gear and pay attention to hands, feet and face as they will get cold first. Pack an extra blanket and layers and make use of hot hands. If it’s hot out make sure they’re in lightweight cool clothing and stay hydrated.  Babies in particular can’t regulate their body temperature as well as we can so I chose to hunt mild temperatures and nothing extreme.

3. Bug spray/Sunscreen. Yes, so far everything seems like common sense I know! Keep in mind that a lot of bug spray and sunscreen isn’t safe for young children and babies and you’ll want to use something natural without harmful chemicals. I used Bug Off spray with good results, and there are several great brands of baby sunscreen if you’re going to be in the sun. Hearing protection is also another option to have if you are planning on loudly calling (elk, turkey etc) and don’t want to wake up your child if they’re napping.

Isabella riding in a carrier with Beka shooting her recurve bow

4. Pack/Carrier. Isabella was only a few months old when I started taking her on hikes. Since 99% of the places I go aren’t exactly stroller friendly, I opted for baby carriers. If you plan on shooting/hunting you’ll want to get one. For smaller babies you’ll want a soft carrier such as a wrap, sling, or front carrier that supports their head and neck. From roughly 6 months to several years old, a backpack carrier works best. You can shoot with ease while carrying them, which is great. Many of them are pricey but you can find great used backpack carriers online for sale at a fraction of the price. You will want to practice shooting while wearing it, as it does cause you to distribute your weight differently 

6. Snacks/water. This is a big one. For children under a year it can be a little tricky as babies tend to eat A LOT and mostly on demand. You’ll need to bring bottles if appropriate. For older babies and children, bring a variety of quiet snacks and water. I liked to use snacks strategically to keep Isabella quiet when I knew a turkey was close.

7. Diapers and wipes. Self explanatory. You’re going to need them.

8. Toys/Electronics. I brought along some soft (quiet) toys for Isabella to keep her distracted when she got fussy. For older kids you can bring an iPad with games and headphones as a last resort if they get antsy. 

Beka and Isabella on a successful squirrel hunt

9. Blind/No blind. I’ve hunted out of a ground blind as well as spot and stalk hunting with Isabella on my back. Both seemed to work well, just do what is best for you. There is really no wrong answer. There is really no exact science to taking a kid along on your adventures. Stay flexible and remember you want them to enjoy the experience as well. You’re never too young to get out and enjoy the woods.

By Beka Garris
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6 Steps for Pre-Season Prep

At the time of writing this, deer season is just days away here in Ohio, and I’ve been running down a mental checklist in my head of all the things I need to do and have ready for opening day.

I’ve always been a very prepared person, so these things are just something I do every year, and I think it’s something every hunter should do.

1. Practice. This is something that should be a given, but you’d be surprised how many people will pick up their bow for the first time in months, on opening day, and expect to be shooting perfectly. Even if it’s just a few arrows a day, practice is something every hunter should be doing. As a traditional hunter, it should be something that you do year round.

Bear Kodiak Recurve with Bear Bow Quiver

2. Bow Maintenance. This is something that needs to be given a once over every year, but that doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll have to change anything. Check your bow string and make sure it doesn’t need to be replaced (once a year is roughly the life of a string depending on how often you shoot). Check your hunting arrows for any any cracks and make sure they don’t need to be refletched. If you are shooting feathers in particular, this can be the case. 

Beka Garris Woodsman Broadheads

If you’re reusing your broadheads, make sure they are sharp. It’s easy enough to sharpen fixed blades and a dull broadhead isn’t doing you any favors.

Knowing your bow and accessories are in working order will ensure you can rely on it performing well when it comes down to it. 

Beka Garris Hunting Pack and Hunting Buddy

3. Organizing your pack.  I like to leave the basics in my pack every year (binoculars, arm guard, extra shooting glove, knife, waterproof box) and add whatever I’ll need for hunting that particular game when the time comes. For deer I’ll add a grunt tube, face mask, snacks, water and usually an extra layer of clothing. I like organizing everything so I know exactly what I have and where it is when I need it.

Hunting Blind Prep for Season

4. Scouting and Stand Prep. Most hunters have their spots picked out far in advance, and many sit the same spot every year with success. If you are going to use a treestand, make sure you don’t need to replace any cables or straps. If you’re hunting from a blind and setting it up in advance, make sure you have your chair setup and all crunchy grass and leaves removed from the floor in the blind. Also, do a wasp nest check before opening day. Trust me on this one…you don’t want to be sharing your blind with a dozen wasps when the sun comes up. 

Beka Garris Prepping her Hunting Blind

Check shooting lanes and then check again. Trim anything that could even remotely prevent you from getting your shot.

5. Wash your camo. It seems this varies from hunter to hunter… Some hunters like to wash their clothes in scent free detergent and store them in tubs. Others like to air them outside and spray down with scent killer. Whatever you do, make sure it’s done before opening day!

Beka using the slow cooker for dinner prep

6. House and Food prep. This one may sound a bit out of the ordinary on this list, but in truth it is extremely helpful. Especially if you’re planning on being away from home for long periods of time, it’s nice to have things prepped. No one likes to clean their house, but organizing and cleaning your house before hunting season just means you won’t have to worry about it during hunting season. Planning easy meals and making them ahead of time to stick in the freezer has been a game changer…meal prep and throw something in the crock pot before you leave in the morning. When you come home at night you’ll have a hot meal without having to actually cook. 

By Beka Garris
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Finding the Right Hunting Pack

Badlands 2200 and Badlands Monster

Like many people, I own more than a few pairs of shoes. Dress shoes, tennis shoes, hunting boots… The list goes on. There is not one shoe that works for all occasions. The same goes with hunting packs.

From chasing elk in Colorado, whitetails in Indiana, or hogs in Florida the hunting pack you need can vary greatly. I have been very slow to realize this myself, and often force a pack to fit for a situation that it’s not ideal for. The best example of this is when I take an oversized hunting pack for an evening treestand sit in the deer woods.

When I have shopped for packs I have been like many folks and look at getting the max volume size for a pack. Hunting packs are not cheap, so my thought has always been to go bigger than what I believe I need, and just not fill the space. Problem with this is I find myself with more than half a backpack empty, and then I talk myself into putting more in as, “I have the space, so why not.”

Now, the dedicated person may have the mental strength to avoid doing this, but I’m betting I am not the only hunter sitting in the woods carrying the “kitchen sink” worth of gear. What I have done over the past few years to limit the over packing when I get ready for a hunt is first writing down a list of all items I truly ‘need’ for a hunt, then start expanding out from there. I don’t even look at a pack till I have my list in hand, and the items laid out in front of me.

Hunting Gear Laid Out

What to pack in your hunting pack

When writing your own list, think about how long you plan to be out, how far away from your vehicle or home/camp (where I keep non-essential gear),  and on every item you are about to write down ask yourself, “If I didn’t have this on me,  what would it hurt?”

Now, this may seem like a silly question, but it can really shed some gear from a pack. I no longer carry a folding saw with me when I head to treestand. I have hand shears for smaller branches, but I’ll make sure any large branches or logs are removed when I first set up the tree stand, and I’ve gotten better with my knife to not need a bone saw when I’m field dressing.

For an example on writing a list, here is what I take for an evening sit in my tree stand in Indiana. What I take into consideration is I’m never really that far from my truck and even with leaving work a bit early, I’m only out for a few hours.

  1. License and transport tag (put in license holder with small pencil)
  2. Bow and arrows (4-5 with broadheads, 1-2 with hammer blunts)
  3. Shooting glove and armguard
  4. Headlamp
  5. Safety harness and tree strap
  6. Phone / Camera
  7. Pull up rope (doubles as drag rope)
  8. Seat cushion
  9. Whisper dust
  10. Bow, 2nd arrow, and gear holders
  11. Field dressing kit – Knife, latex gloves, and wash cloth
  12. Back-up shooting glove and bow string
  13. Camo gloves
  14. Ratchet shears
  15. Bottle of water
  16. Medic kit (small one)
  17. Face paint
  18. CC-sharpener
  19. Toilet paper

Now, some of this is carried on my person (numbers 1 – 6 mainly), so always keep that in mind. As I keep the, “cannot afford to lose” items always within grasp. This is an early season list. Which will grow as the weather dictates. Add a rain coat, grunt tube, insect repellent, etc. All going off what I expect to happen that day.

When I first started writing a list two things happened immediately for me. First, I start cutting the unneeded items before I even finish writing. This example list is 19 items long. That “feels” like a lot, but you should have seen the first lists I made. Secondly, I stopped forgetting gear I needed when I went on my hunts.

Now with your list done lay all of the items out. I set up a card table in my garage and organize items best I can. So have your broadhead sharpening gear next to each other, and your clothing in order from base layer to outer layer. Being able to visualize my gear I try to imagine each piece being used on the hunt, and how likely that is. If I could do without it, I put it aside as a secondary item. If there is space I’ll take it, but most likely it stays in the truck.

Early Season Gear in Haversack

Now that I can see what I need, I pull my hunting packs out. I have a Badlands 2200, an old Keyes hunting pack, and a 3Rivers Haversack. For long hours moving about I like the Badlands packs as they have a waist belt and tons of space. So I can comfortably wear it all day and I can carry some meat if I’m lucky enough to put something on the ground. The Keyes pack has tons of space, and I have used it for many years as I have hunted from treestands here in Indiana. The added space lets me pack extra clothing with ease. So great as the weather gets colder. For early season the 3Rivers Haversack is the perfect size. I have the least amount of gear I need to take with me, and the smaller bag makes it easier to move around. I have recently started hunting with a ghillie suit, and having the smaller pack makes it easier to balance a bulkier item like the ghillie suit. Nice thing with the 3Rivers Haversack and the Badlands 2200 pack is the bedroll straps. As strapping a ghillie suit to the bottom of the pack is a breeze.

The only item that always makes it is my med kit. I have it stripped down, but in case of emergency it will save my life.

I hope all of us get more time in the woods to get the experience of “doing stuff.” Learn what you can from others, but never let the hands on fun get away from you. Straight Shooting!

By: Johnathan Karch

Setting Up a Clicker for Hunting

Denny Sturgis Jr showing a clicker on his hunting recurve bowA clicker, or draw check, makes an audible noise (click) when an archer hits his desired draw length. They are used by almost all Olympic archery shooters to achieve the precision accuracy needed to succeed in that field. They work great as a signal, or trigger, to release the arrow.

I recently decided to use a clicker as a training aid. I needed to get back to the basics of anchoring on every shot instead of short drawing and trying to “sneak up” on it; as my coach Rod Jenkins informed me I was doing. I set a commitment goal of using a clicker religiously for three months. Part of that three month period included spring turkey season though. Which I most certainly was not going to miss.

Styles of Draw Check Clickers
There are several styles of clickers for bows. On the left is one that mounts to the bow’s riser and slides along the arrow. On the right is a style that mounts to the bow limb and attaches to the string.

Clickers are available in several different styles. For hunting, the type that attaches to the string as well as the bow works best with all arrow points including broadheads and blunts. What I used here is the Crick-it Draw Check Clicker. While the light string and adjustable ball chain that comes with clickers works fine on the target range, I felt concern over its longevity in the field and the noise of the click when trying to take a super quiet, close hunting shot.

Jason Wesbrock with whitetail buckI consulted with Jason Wesbrock who has successfully used a clicker for years. Jason is an amazing bowhunter, world champion archer, and star of Masters of the Barebow Vol. 5. I took some tips from Jason and incorporated them into my own experiments and came up with a system that worked well for me on the hunt.

Steps for Setting up a Clicker for Hunting

Step 1 is to disassemble the clickerStep 1: Remove the clicker blade, the piece of metal that makes the noise, from the clicker. For the Crick-it clicker mine required a Phillips screwdriver.

Step 2 for setting up a clicker is removing the metal ball chainStep 2: You want to remove the chain grommet from the clicker blade. It may require a small amount of force, but be gentle.

Step 3 for setting up a clicker is to slide a nylon cord through clicker bladeStep 3:  Slide nylon cord through the hole where the ball chain was. As not all nylon cord is the same diameter, it may require drilling the hole to pull the cord through. You want it to be a tight fit though. 

Step 4 for setting a clicker is to singe the cord in placeStep 4: Using a hand lighter, singe the end of the nylon cord and extinguish it by pushing it straight down into a couple drops of water on a flat, non-combustible surface. This should leave a hard, flat collar on one end of the cord. You can test to see if the end will hold by pulling on the cord to get the blade to make the click sound.

Step 5 for setting up a clicker for hunting is to wrap the blade in tapeStep 5:  To silence your clicker blade you can apply heavy duty outdoor tape to the center of the blade. The more layers you apply, the quieter it will get. It is up to you how much this will be.

Step 6: Reassemble your clicker by screwing the blade back onto the plate in proper position. It is now ready to be installed on your hunting bow.

Step 7: Clean your top bow limb with denatured alcohol and a clean rag several inches below where the string separates from the bow limb. You want the clicker on the top limb so the least amount of nylon cord is used, and it stays out of the brush when moving.

Mounting the clicker to the upper bow limbStep 8: Remove the sticky backing from the clicker and press onto the center of the top bow limb with the string positioned down.

Step 9: Mark the bow string where you would like the clicker nylon string to be located so it resembles the photo.

Step 10: Unstring your bow, divide the bow string strands at the mark and insert the end of the cord through about a half inch.

Step 11: String your bow, and double check brace height and position of the cord. Sometimes the string will twist. If the cord is twisted unstring and remove the cord and insert again from the other side.

Step 12: Once the cord is straight you can adjust the length by pulling it to the correct length to click at the desired draw length. I cut off the extra leaving about ¾” of cord and burn the end (be careful here). On a Flemish twist string the cord will stay in position. On an endless loop type string you may need to serve above and below the cord to maintain position.

For silencing the clicker, I tried a number of different suggestions and ideas and have settled on what I believe is the perfect solution. A piece of Scotch brand outdoor mounting tape stuck to the face of the blade silences the click consistently; the bigger the piece the quieter the click. You can even make it silent if you want and still feel the clicker break in your string hand. I ended up preferring a piece of scotch tape approximately ¼” by ¾”.

Denny Sturgis Jr with jake turkey taken with his bow with a clicker installed

My turkey hunting was very slow that year. When a jake came into my hen calls I decided to take the shot. I hit anchor and pulled while aiming until the muffled click went off and my arrow disappeared in the sweet spot.

I have shot larger toms, but I’ve never been more pumped about making a great shot under pressure and staying on the road to shooting success.

Chase Niblock
Even ‘quick to jump’ African game can be shot with a clicker on your bow… If you have it set up right.

Chase Niblock with BIG buck
Monster deer taken by a bow with a clicker installed.

By Denny Sturgis, Jr.

How to Make a Ghillie Suit Fit

The ghillie suit is an excellent addition to the traditional bowhunter’s bag of tricks. The textured camouflage clothing of a ghillie suit is designed to break up your outline to help you blend into your environment. Ghillie suits are also called sniper suits as they are used by military sniper units all over the world.

Wearing a ghillie when bowhunting can offer more opportunities to get you closer to big game and out of the treestand. The challenge for the traditional bowhunter is customizing the ghillie suit to not interfere when you are shooting your bow. Getting your ghillie suit ready for hunting season only requires time and a good pair of scissors. We are using the Rancho Safari Shaggie® longcoat. If you use a different brand of ghillie suit, it may require more trimming.

Ghillie suits are made to travel easilyUnrolling the ghillie suit

Ghillie suits are hot. Adding strips of material, such as jute burlap and cotton, helps to break up an outline, but it also reflects your body heat back on you. So when wearing a ghillie suit you have to take into consideration that it will not be comfortable to walk around in. Many hunters will carry them to where they intend to hunt, then put them on.

Open your ghillie suit up outside Shake your ghillie suit to get loose strips off

When you first get your ghillie it is best to open it up outside in case of any loose material. We recommend giving it a good shake into the wind to force anything not sewn down to come off.

Size your ghillie suit for a close fit. Not loose. Ghillie suit cinch straps keep it closer to your body

Cinch down all straps on your ghillie suit for maximum mobility Ghillie suits use velcro straps to keep them in place

When first fitting a ghillie suit be aware of all straps, ties, and Velcro® strips. You want your suit to fit tight against you so as not to be cumbersome, get in the way when shooting, or get snagged on brush. The Shaggie longcoat has a waist level cinch cord, zippered front, forearm straps, and a Velcro® collar strip.

Ghillie suit sized and adjusted

Now with the ghillie suit situated, do some walking around. Try some stretches, stalking (crouched slow walking), and just anything to confirm the ghillie fits properly to your body.

The Shaggie Cat-Guard Arm Guard is a great accessory for the ghillie suit

One great accessory to have is an extra long armguard. Rancho Safari offers the Cat-Guard Armguard and fits nicely on most arms and is made to bend with your arm for great comfort.

TECH TIP: When putting on your armguard, turn your arm so your palm faces up and the straps point downward. This will get more of the camo strips to the outside of your arm and away from the bow string.

Watch for ghillie suit threads getting in the way of the bow string Ghillie suits normally catch the bow string in the chest area

Now, it is time to practice shooting your bow and arrow with a ghillie suit on. This is best done with a friend to watch where the ghillie suit is interfering with the bow string. You can do this step alone, either by setting up a camera to record yourself, or by pulling to full draw and holding while inspecting. Pay close attention to your upper chest nearest to the bow. Depending upon your form, this is the area that will require the most trimming.

Use scissors to trim your ghillie suit Cut all ghillie suit fabric that will interfer with the bow string

Using a pair of good scissors, trim down any strip that comes in contact with the bow string when at full draw. How much that will be cut is up to you, but you don’t want to miss the shot of a lifetime, or wound an animal, because your bow string got caught on a strand. This process can be quick, or it can take an hour(s). It really depends on how much the string is being interfered with and how many different shooting positions you are trimming for.

The ghillie suit carrying strap can do more than carry the suit Using the ghillie suit carry strap for keeping the chest area tight to the body

TECH TIP: Wear a chest guard, or the included carry strap, to cinch down material across your chest.

Trim the ghillie suit boonie hat Be sure to shoot with the ghillie suit boonie hat on during practice

Most ghillie suits will include something for your head; a facemask and/or a hat. These help break up your outline, and may require trimming as well to make sure they do not interfere with your anchor.

The Shaggie longcoat comes with a boonie hat. It is best to trim all that you can in front of your face so as not to have any strands in your peripheral vision that may distract you during the shot.

Wear the ghillie suit boonie hat behind the left ear for a right handed archer Wear the ghillie suit boonie hat in front of the right ear for the right handed archer

TECH TIP: For the right handed shooter, put the straps of the boonie hat behind your LEFT ear and in front of your RIGHT ear. This will help keep the hat in place when you go to draw your bow.

Practive shooting your bow and arrow with your ghillie suit on Practice different shooting stances while wearing your ghillie suit

With all of your trimming done it is time to practice, practice, practice. Shoot your bow with your ghillie suit on any chance you get. You want to be 100% comfortable shooting with it on by the time you are using it during a hunt. Be sure to shoot standing, sitting, kneeling, and any and all positions you can safely shoot a bow from. Always be willing to trim unneeded pieces to make sure your shot is not interfered with.

Bowhunting with a ghillie suit is an exciting undertaking. Once you get your ghillie suit fitted to your body and shooting style you will be on your way to an exciting new chapter in your hunting career. Best of luck, and be sure to share with us your hunting successes at our online trophy room here.

By: Johnathan Karch

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Broadheads for Wood Arrows

By: Dale Karch and Todd Smith

Woodsman BroadheadsGlue-On Broadheads have taken every kind of big game known to man.

What’s up with all these glue-on broadheads? Which ones are the best? Which ones should I use? What are the differences?

These are all great questions and we hear them often from our customers who are thinking about adding glue-on broadheads to their gear for the first time. We’ve been supplying broadheads to the traditional market for more than 25 years now. Today we’re going to share with you what we’ve learned about glue-on broadheads. We hope that this column will shed some light on these ‘tried and true’ broadheads for wood arrows.

In the world of wooden arrows, longbows, and recurves we believe that broadheads must have three main attributes:

    • First, they must fly accurately. Broadhead design, length to width ratios, balance, and straightness will all affect good arrow flight. Generally speaking, wide non-vented heads will be more likely to wind plane (be deflected by crosswinds). Whereas more narrow heads, especially if they are long and slender, will be less prone to wind plane. Vented heads rarely, if ever, wind plane regardless of their dimensions. To fly accurately, not only must the head be manufactured and ground precisely, the bowhunter must also mount them on his arrows correctly. They must be in perfect alignment with the shaft and the shaft should be as close to perfectly straight as possible. That’s a tall order, especially for wooden arrows. But, if your arrows are straight AND your broadheads are aligned correctly then your arrows should fly straight and true. In this scenario any well-designed, glue-on broadhead should fly well. However, if your arrows are not perfectly straight, then vented broadheads will fly more accurately for you because they have less surface area and less wind resistance. With vented heads, the wind resistance flows through the openings whereas on non-vented broadheads the wind resistance pushes against the flat surface area causing lift on a miss-aligned broadhead. With lift comes broadhead steerage and erratic flight.
    • Second, they must penetrate well. Strength, shape and design are the major contributors here. All of the broadheads mentioned in this column are well designed. Strong sharp broadheads that are flying true, and don’t hit solid bone, will penetrate well. It is generally accepted that two-blade broadheads penetrate the best but also produce the smallest wound channel. Three and 4-blade broadheads still penetrate well and leave a much larger wound channel resulting in better blood trails. When considering which style to use, the bowhunter should consider the game being hunted, the draw weight of the bow and the overall mass weight of the arrow. Many traditionalists go for 2-blade broadheads on large animals such as elk and moose figuring that the deeper penetration will be more important that a better blood trail. We agree to a point, but Dale has used 4- blade broadheads on some pretty big critters, like kudu and zebra, with excellent results. It’s a judgment call on the part of the bowhunter. However, we prefer and recommend multiple blade heads in most situations.
  • Third, they must be easy to sharpen. In today’s market of razor sharp, replaceable blades for nearly all screw-in broadheads, many bowhunters are not aware of the fact that the factory grind on most glue-on broadheads is not shaving/hunting sharp right out of the package. This factory grind gets them close to what we call ‘hunting sharp’, but the bowhunters themselves must put on the final edge. Ease of sharpening is influenced most by the relative hardness of the steel (its Rockwell rating). Basically, the harder the steel, the tougher it is, and the softer the steel the easier it is to sharpen them. The key to good broadheads is getting the steel tempered hard enough to give you strength, but soft enough to allow you to sharpen them with a file. For these reasons, we prefer broadheads with a Rockwell rating in the mid to high 40’s. Another factor that influences ease of sharpening is the angle of the factory grind. If it is too steep, most of the ‘quick and easy’ sharpening aids won’t work. This means that the bowhunter will have to reduce that angle themselves. For easy sharpening, stick with broadheads with a nice low factory grind like you’ll find on the Woodsman® Broadheads.

Woodsman Broadheads
Woodsman® Broadheads require little sharpening out of the package.

Which glue-on broadheads should I buy? Several brands come instantly to mind, and it’s only fair to start with the old timers in the industry like Zwickey, Ace Archery, and Howard Hill.

Zwickey broadheads have long been the standard that other broadheads are measured against. They have taken tons of big game, and the fact that they’re still one of the top producers of glue-on broadheads speaks very well of their entire operation. With longevity comes fame and Zwickey Broadheads have incredible name recognition. Almost everyone has heard of Zwickey. Available in both 2-blade and 4-blade versions, you can’t go wrong with Zwickey Broadheads. From the small 5/16″ Eskilite ‘Black Diamond’ to the famous Eskimo, and the massive Delta. Zwickey broadheads are hard to beat. They are priced right in the middle of the spectrum too so not only are they quality broadheads, but they are affordable too.

Zwickey Black Diamond BroadheadsZwickey Eskimo BroadheadsZwickey Delta Broadheads
Zwickey offers such popular broadheads as The Black Diamond, Eskimo, and Delta.

Ace Broadheads, another old-timer in the market, have a loyal following and are actually enjoying a recent revival in popularity. Available in 2-blade only, they are another excellent example of a reasonably priced, quality, traditional two-blade broadhead.

Ace 2-blade glue-on broadheads
The Ace two-blade broadhead enjoys a loyal following.

Howard Hill broadheads, like Howard Hill bows, have a following of bowhunters with a fierce loyalty to the old-time tradition and legendary accomplishments of one of the greatest archers of all time, Howard Hill. These broadheads have a long and colorful history, and die-hard Hill fans are certain to make them a part of their traditional set-up. They’re a bit tricky to sharpen, but they are an old time classic with a long and revered history.

Howard Hill Glue-on Broadheads
Howard Hill broadheads have as rich a history as the man for whom they’re named.

What about the old Bear Greenheads? No article about glue-on broadheads would be complete without the mention of Fred Bear’s ‘Greenheads,’ but we’re sorry to say, these venerable heads are no longer in production. Too bad… They were one of the best broadheads of all time and many bowhunters are still stalking their prey with quivers full of arrows tipped with their trusted old friend, the Bear Greenhead.

Now, what about the more recent entries in the glue-on broadhead market? Broadheads like Magnus Classic, Woodsman, and Grizzly?

Magnus Classic broadheads are the dominating force in glue-on broadheads today. With plenty of mix-and-match models of glue-on broadheads, available in 2-blade, 3-blade, and 4-blade versions they have a broadhead for any situation imaginable. Ever improving, they have an excellent out-of-the-package grind that is almost hunting/shaving sharp, and a diamond tip that dramatically increases the strength of this already tough broadhead over any ‘needle-point’ head out there. We have personally used these broadheads for years and have great confidence in them. In addition, they are reasonably priced and carry a lifetime guarantee.

Snuffer 3-blade BroadheadsMagnus Classic MA II Vented BroadheadsMagnus Classic MA I 4-blade broadheads
The dominating force in broadheads, Magnus Classic offers a wide variety of heads.

The Woodsman® Broadhead is our bestselling 3-blade broadhead. They’re long and lean vented 3-blade broadheads that have proven themselves on big game time and time again. They’re quickly becoming a household name. They fly true, and once you get used to the 3-blade configuration, they’re easy to sharpen. This is a ‘must have’ broadhead for any archer.

Woodsman 3-blade Broadheads
A great broadhead for big game, the Woodsman is a best seller.

Eclipse Broadheads are very reminiscent of the Zwickey Eskimo 2-blade, but they are unique in that they are Teflon® coated for superior penetration. They are a medium priced, 2-blade broadhead designed to penetrate the world’s toughest game.

Eclipse 2-blade Broadheads
Except for their Teflon® coating, Eclipse two-blade broadheads are similar in design to the Zwickey Eskimo.

The Grizzly single bevel broadhead (and its big brother the Kodiak) have been in great demand ever since their introduction over fifteen years ago. They are almost a 3:1 ratio, very long and narrow. They fly very well, penetrate well, and since they are sharpened with a single bevel, they are easy to finish sharpening to a ‘shaving-sharp’ edge. They are very popular with bowhunters hunting in Africa as they are nearly indestructible and have proven themselves on the toughest African game. Still very reasonably priced, they are a broadhead worth considering. The Bod-Kin is a 3-blade glue-on broadhead that has stood the test of time. Easy to use and inexpensive, a broadhead that many have seen in their Grandparent’s quiver.

Grizzly Single Bevel BroadheadsKodiak Single Bevel BroadheadsBod-Kin 3-blade glue-on Broadheads
The Grizzly Broadhead is popular with bowhunters pursuing African game. The Bod-Kin is a cost effective broadhead that gets the job done.

Zephyr Broadheads are quality and precision all the way. Offering cutlery grade stainless steel and shaving sharp blades right out of the package. Their unique bleeder blades sit forward in the ferrule so you don’t have to slot or cut off your wood tapers to use them. May be used with or without the bleeders as either two-blade or 4-blade broadheads. All these features do come at a price and you’ll pay a little more for a three pack than you will for most other glue-on heads by the six-pack. Still, there are bowhunters out there that don’t mind paying for convenience and quality, and these excellent broadheads offer both.

Zephyr Scirocco Glue-on Broadheads
Zephyr offers cutlery grade stainless steel and shaving sharp blades right out of the package.

If you find a rugged, dependable glue-on broadhead that you want to use on your aluminum or carbon arrows, you’re in luck! Glue-on broadheads can also be mounted on broadhead adapters to work in carbon and aluminum arrows. Broadhead adapters are made out of aluminum or steel. The steel add extra weight to your set up and are very strong.

Steel Broadhead AdaptersBroadhead adapters
With the different adapters on the market, you have many options for mounting your glue-on broadheads on carbon or aluminum shafts.

Traditional, glue-on broadheads are in demand and for good reason. They’re solid, dependable, and lethal. Whichever broadhead mentioned above you chose, you now know that these tough, cut-on-contact broadheads are at home on any wood arrow, or even a carbon or aluminum arrow. So get some on your arrows now and go hunting. Try them, then tell your friends about them. See for yourself why you should be using glue-on broadheads for wood arrows.

Keep Hunting
Dale Karch & Todd Smith

For more information contact:
3Rivers Archery
PO Box 517
Ashley IN 46705

866-587-9501

info@3riversarchery.com
or check us out on-line at 3RiversArchery.com

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