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Welcome to the 3Rivers Archer's Den

Archer's Den

Welcome to the Archer's Den. Here you will find a gathering of traditional archery stories, tips and techniques, trophy animals taken with traditional bows, and plenty more. Stay a while and learn something. We hope you enjoy and even submit a trophy of your own, or leave a comment on a post.

Tag Archives: Arrow Building

How to Choose Arrows

Finding new arrows can feel like an overwhelming challenge with so many different options available to traditional archers. Depending upon your needs there are a few ways to narrow down your arrow options. The basic steps for choosing an arrow are:

  1. Choose your arrow material. Arrow material includes Wood, Carbon, Aluminum, or Fiberglass. Each has different benefits and drawbacks discussed below.
  2. Choose arrow spine and arrow length. Arrow spine and arrow length will depend on the bow from which the arrow is being shot. You will also need to determine your draw length and the pull weight of your bow at your draw length, not what is marked on the side of the bow as your draw length may be different. Then with the use of an arrow selection chart (see spine chart here), or an arrow test kit (see all our test kits here) find the proper spine and arrow length for your bow.
  3. Choose your desired shaft pattern. The most common carbon arrow shaft patterns are black, camo, and wood grain. Aluminum arrow shafts have the same choices for the most part. For wood arrow shafts have many different stain colors and accent colors like a crown dip and/or cresting.

3Rivers Wood Hunter Arrows

Choosing Wood Arrows

What makes each arrow material different? When you think traditional archery I’m sure wood arrows come to mind. They are one of the least expensive options, yet require constant maintenance to keep them in shooting condition. Often you must straighten the shafts due to improper care, or due to glancing shots when a target is missed or the arrow is shot into the ground.

Wood arrows fly  quieter than hollow carbon and aluminum arrows, as wood arrows are constructed from of a solid material. Weight can vary depending upon the type of wood the shaft is from. Port Orford Cedar (abbreviated as POC) is the most popular wood arrow material. Light-to-Medium weight, they balance speed with knockdown power. Laminated Birch, Douglas Fir, Sitka Spruce, Bamboo, and Lodgepole Pine are some examples of other wood shafting  that offer varying characteristics, weights, and looks when stained and sealed.

Most wood arrows come in diameters of 5/16″, 11/32″, and 23/64″. Be sure to use a test kit or at least use a spine chart when choosing spine. Wood arrows and shafts come in 5# spine groups as they can be a bit more ‘touchy’ on getting the right spine.

Easton Axis Traditional Carbon Arrows

Choosing Carbon Arrows

Tired of dealing with broken wood arrows? Carbon is a great solution, as they are straighter and more durable than wood. There is no need to be concerned with straightening shafts; just check for cracks. Carbon arrows are easily customized using different arrow nocks, inserts, adapters, and weight systems. The carbon composite is very tough and known to take some abuse that would break other materials. Be sure to watch for cracks around the ends, since when a carbon arrow does break it usually shatters, which can be dangerous.

The standard grain weight on carbons is normally lighter than wood. However, if you are looking for deeper penetration, there is a selection of heavier carbon shafts on the market. Also, by using weight tubes you can bump up the weight, turning a target arrow into a heavy-hitting hunting arrow without affecting the static spine of the arrow spine.

Tuning an arrow to a bow is also much easier with a carbon arrow, as you can easily adjust point weight with different points and inserts (such as Brass Inserts) and different arrow nocks to balance out point weight.

Cutting a carbon arrow requires the right tools, as not any saw blade will work. An abrasive wheeled cut-off saw is an easy and accurate tool for the job.

Consistency and tight tolerances are a big advantage to using carbon. Once you find the proper set up of spine, length, and weight it is easier to match this when buying carbon arrows in the future. Most carbons only have a few spine options, as carbon arrows have faster in-flight recovery thus making them more forgiving with spine.

Diameters for carbon are most commonly 5/16″, but many options are now available in larger and smaller diameters. The smaller diameters are rapidly growing in popularity as they have less wind drag and deeper penetration compared to arrows of the same weight. Many shafts are offered in a test kit of “bare shafts,” (or shafts without fletching), allowing the archer to bare-shaft tune to see exactly how the arrow responds to the shooter without the aid of feathers to correct the shaft in flight.

Easton Tribute Alumium Arrows

Aluminum Arrows

Aluminum shafting has been around for decades. Heavier than most wood and carbon shafting, aluminum arrows offer great penetration, an affordable cost, and have tight tolerances that produce a dependable performance time and time again. Though the selection of different aluminum shafts is small, they are tried and true.

Offered in more spine groups than carbon arrows, aluminum arrows have more fine tuning options for the perfect arrow flight. Many offer nock bushings to allowing for the use of press in nocks for improved accuracy. Aluminum arrows are very tough, but will bend from hard impacts or glancing hits. Bent arrow shafts can be straightened if the bend is not too severe, but in some cases a bent shaft can’t be salvaged.

Very cost effective for those on a budget. Diameters vary from spine to spine, typically offered in 11/32″, 21/64″, 5/16″, and 9/32″.

3Rivers Youth Fiberglass Arrows

Fiberglass Arrows

Though not very common on the target range or in the woods, fiberglass can be a great shaft for bowfishing or youth archery. The big reason is they are extremely strong. The price can be more affordable and the weight is the heaviest of all arrow shafting options. For young archers the advantage is the durability. Other than loosing them, your young archers will be hard pressed to break a fiberglass arrow under normal shooting conditions and bow weights.

Most common sizes are 5/16″ (bowfishing shafts) or 1/4″ (youth arrows).

What Are Your Shooting Needs?

Are you planning on target shooting? Maybe your goal is to be a bowhunter? The answers to these questions can be a big influence on which material you should use.

As a target shooter you may shoot longer distances, which means you’ll want a lighter arrow with a flatter trajectory than a heavy arrow.

Bowhunters should use a heavier weight arrow, as the more weight you put behind your broadhead, the deeper the penetration. Finding the perfect balance can take time, but it will be worth the success.

It is normally recommended for a traditional bowhunter to have 8 to 10 grains for every pound of pull weight. Example: A 50# bow (at your draw) should be close to a 500 grains (including point and fletchings) arrow. You can check with your bow manufacturer to see how light you can go, but if you can’t find the information from them, then it is best to go no less than seven (7) grains per pound (a 50# bow would be 350 grains).

Another issue to consider is shaft diameter. The smaller diameter was developed for better penetration on game and less wind drift on longer shots. Certain spines and sizes may only be available in specific diameters such as wood and aluminum shafts. Make sure to size field points and broadheads to the shaft. In some cases the heads can be slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft but they should never be under-sized, as smaller heads will decrease penetration, slightly diminish accuracy, or even damage the shaft in a target.

Finding the Right Spine and Arrow Length

Nothing can have a bigger impact on your shooting accuracy than the arrow spine. Spine (not spline) is the static measurement of deflection of a shaft. Basically, it is how much the shaft bends. Shafts that bend more have a higher deflection and are better for lower weight bows, and “stiffer” spines are better for heavy weight bows. Be sure to use a test kit or at least a spine selection chart when choosing your arrow spine.

Test kits are the best option, as an archer’s shooting style and bow may respond differently than what a chart would say. Actually shooting arrows and tuning them is the best method for pairing the correct spine with your bow and you.

When selecting the correct arrow length it is recommended you have an arrow at least one (1) inch longer than your draw length. The reason for this is that as the point is always in front of the bow, you don’t want it to get caught up on the shelf or inadvertently draw a sharp broadhead onto your hand. Use the arrow length as a tuning feature also. The longer an arrow is, the weaker the spine will be. Arrows can be tuned by starting with a full length arrow and incrementally cutting a 1/4″ to a 1/2″ at a time off until the arrow flight is perfected.

What is Your Style of Arrow?

Cost may be the biggest factor when it comes to the look of an arrow. Wood arrows can be stained before being sealed. Fiberglass is limited mostly to solid colors (like black). Carbon and Aluminum arrows have the most options and always seem to be changing from year to year. The least expensive is normally a black matte finish. Growing in popularity on the market are finishes in different camouflages, wood grain patterns, carbon weave, and a mix of any of the above. If you are willing to pay a little more for a look to fit your style, you should have no problems finding the right shaft for you.

Finally

In conclusion, choosing the right arrows can make a big difference in your shooting. Be sure to take the time to find the right arrow for your needs.

If you have questions or need advice, please call the 3Rivers Archery tech crew. The Longbow and Recurve Experts are happy to help. You can reach them on the phone at 866-RECURVE (732-8783) or online at Info@3RiversArchery.com

Setting up a Bow Fishing Arrow

by Johnathan Karch

Johnathan Karch on the water with his bowfishing set-up
Bowfishing Can Be Fun and Rewarding

Bow fishing is fun for all ages. It is a sport that can be enjoyed by the beginner looking for more of a challenge than targets (and more fun) to shoot, to the die-hard bowhunter that loves to have the bow in their hands all-year round. Using the same bow as for shooting targets or bow hunting, an archer can be set up for bow fishing in quick order.

The bowfishing reel and arrow are the only gear requirements (however, many states/provinces require a fishing license, check your local regulations) needed to get you on the water chasing fish. Each of these pieces of gear requires a bit of focus. For now we’ll be covering the bowfishing arrow.

The majority of my bowfishing experience has been shooting carp on rivers. They are an invasive species and as a bottom feeder they won’t bite on a lure; making them the perfect target for a bowfisher. Easy to spot in the water due to their large size, you will be surprised how enjoyable sinking an arrow in one can be.

Building a fish arrow for carp is great for the beginner. I find it a great starting point as carp are found in most places in the United States and the same fish arrow can be applied to other bowfishing game.

Bowfishing Arrow Shaft

The backbone of your bowfishing arrow is the shaftThe backbone of any arrow is the shaft. The first thing you will notice about a bow fishing arrow is how heavy it is. This is due to the material used for the arrow must be extremely durable for taking hard hits, and the arrow must have great penetration to punch through scales on tough fish.

Most bowfishing arrows are made of fiberglass, carbon, or a hybrid combination of the two. Fiberglass is tough and less expensive, but nothing is as tough, nor offers the stiffer spine or straightness as carbon. The hybrid models of bowfishing arrow shafts inlay strips of carbon on/in the fiberglass to add the advantages of carbon (strength, stiffness, and straightness) without having the cost of a solid carbon arrow.

Most people leave a fish arrow full length, and do not cut it shorter to match their draw length like you would with other arrows. Bowfishing arrows are extra stiff, and the extra length helps weaken the spine so it is better tuned for your bow. The extra length also adds more weight to the finished arrow for heavier hitting power.

Bowfishing Points

Match your bowfishing point to the fish and location
The point is the most important part of your bowfishing arrow set-up. Matching a bowfishing point to the fish you are after and your location can make or break your day on the water. Going after big carp on rivers/creeks is way different than gar on a calm lake. For carp, holding power and hard hitting penetration tend to be the most important. I also like a point that can reverse the barbs without having to touch it, as with bigger fish it is hard to push the arrow all the way through the fish to get at the point. For small gar in deeper in water, being able to get your arrow to the fish without water planning is important. Having a replaceable tip is an arrow saver if you bow fish in rocky areas.

On many bowfishing points there is a small hole at the base of the ferrule. This is so you can reinforce the point by installing a steel pin or nail through the shaft. Not a necessity, but if you are worried about hitting a lot of rocky surfaces, this is great insurance to not lose your point. It is recommended to use a drill press to drill the shaft for accuracy and safety.

If you’re not sure which point would work best, or if you do a lot of different types of bowfishing, checkout RPM Bowfishing points. Their APS (All Point System) uses a universal ferrule that all of their point bodies mount to easily so you can find the perfect fit for your shooting.

Putting it all Together

For building a bowfishing arrow, you need the same components as with a target or hunting arrow (except the fletching):
1) Point 2) Shaft, and 3) Nock.

The AMS safety slide system installed on a fish arrowThe only addition for a fishing arrow is a safety slide system. Some may say this is not a requirement, but in my opinion safety is always #1. The AMS Safety Slide system keeps the bowfishing line in front of the bow to prevent the line from tangling with the bow string and having the arrow snap-back to potentially hurt (or kill) you and those around you.

For the first step you need to choose a fish shaft for the arrow. I prefer a carbon/fiberglass hybrid like the Cajun Yellow Jacket or RPM Hazard (shown here). I glue the nock in place first so the safety slide is aligned properly. For gluing the nock on I use a fletching glue such as Fletch-it Archer’s Adhesive or Fletch-Tite Platinum. It dries fast and has good holding strength. I glue the nock so the pre-drilled hole at the back of the shaft is even with the notch of the nock (so the safety slide stop will be on top of the shaft).

Finally, for installing the bowfishing point I use some sandpaper to rough up the end of the arrow so the epoxy has something to grip to for an extra strong hold.
Next I install the safety slide and all its components as it is important to have the slide in place before installing the bowfishing point.

Finally, for installing the bowfishing point I use some sandpaper to rough up the end of the arrow so the epoxy has something to grip to for an extra strong hold. I recommend AAE 2-Part Epoxy for mounting bowfishing points as the slow 24 hour cure time retains elasticity, yet holds like iron. This is a very good combo for points that will be taking a lot of punishment. Alignment of the point has no bearing on how it will shoot, so go with whatever you prefer. I prefer horizontal, as the barbs are out of my view and gravity has an equal impact on the barbs (if they are movable, like with the AMS Mayhem or RPM NOS Point). As I said though, it will have zero impact on how the arrow shoots.

Straight Shooting
Johnathan Karch

For more information contact:

3Rivers Archery
PO Box 517
Ashley IN 46705

1-260-587-9501

info@3riversarchery.com

Arrow Tips by Gold Tip: Arrow Assembly

Gold Tip logo

Arrow Assembly
Broadhead Tuning
Paper Tuning
Bare Shaft Tuning

Arrow Assembly

Gold Tip arrows are not only the best performing arrows on the market; they are also the most user-friendly. With proper care and by adhering to the assembly instructions below you will find Gold Tip shafts quick and easy to assemble in any configuration you desire.

Arrow Cutting

Use only a high speed, abrasive wheel cutoff saw that is designed specifically for cutting arrow shafts. Use of any other method could result in damage to the shaft. It is recommended that your arrow shaft be cut at least one inch in front of the arrow rest at full draw. Arrows that are cut too short can be drawn past the arrow rest which could result in the arrow falling from the string, jamming, or otherwise causing damage to the arrow or the bow, and could even lead to personal injury. Never shoot an arrow that is less than one inch past the arrow rest at full draw.

Tip from the Pros: Try cutting arrow shafts on both ends to improve straightness. Straightness flaws in carbon arrows are typically found on the ends. Cutting both ends will often lead to better straightness and thus, better accuracy.

Installing Inserts

– Read Warning and First Aid instructions on Tip Grip bottle before use.
– Wear safety glasses.
– Do not handle inserts by gluing surfaces as doing so may lead to improper adhesion. Disposable gloves are recommended.
– Use only TIP GRIP adhesive to install inserts. Do not use hot melt glue on carbon arrows.

Step 1: Clean inside of shaft to a depth of 1 inch with clean water on a cotton swab to remove debris. Allow to dry.
Step 2: Apply TIP GRIP adhesive to insert using three generous lines evenly spread and length wise along the flats of the insert.
Step 3: Install insert into shaft and rotate slowly one full turn while doing so.
Step 4: With a clean cloth immediately wipe off any excess glue from the shaft and insert.
Step 5: Allow 24 hours for adhesive to cure before shooting. Shooting before adhesive has fully

Installing Nocks

Gold Tip GT Series and Accu-lite Nocks are designed to fit snuggly without the use of adhesive. Simply press the nock into the shaft and rotate to achieve correct vane orientation.

Gold Tip Pin Nocks and HD Pin Nocks are designed to fit snuggly over a pin nock bushing without the use of adhesive. After following the instructions for installing a Gold Tip pin nock bushing (see below), simply press the nock onto the pin and rotate to achieve correct vane orientation.

Gold Tip Pin Nock Bushings are used in conjunction with a pin nock or HD pin nock. The bushings can be glued in using Tip Grip adhesive or pressed in using plastic or Teflon tape.

Tip from the Pros: Instead of using glue, press your pin nock bushing into the shaft through a piece of plastic grocery bag, or wrap the bushing with Teflon tape prior to pressing it in the shaft. This will allow the bushing to fit tightly without rotating and at the same time, it will allow you to replace the bushing in the event it becomes damaged. If the pin is damaged after being glued in it is very difficult and sometimes not even possible to remove the damaged pin without damaging the shaft. (see photos below)

Nock Install

Nock install

Glue Nock
Glue nock
Glue Point
Glue point

How to: Arrow Cresting

James' Crested Arrow

The other day James, one of our traditional archery technical experts, came up to me to show me his newly crested arrow. They’re pretty sweet, if I do say so myself, and after James told me how easy it was I decided to write a short “how to” post about it.

The short and sweet.

After appling carbon/aluminum prep put your arrow on a crester then, using a cresting brush, lay down your cresting paint. James put his cresting on a cap wrap, so he didn’t need to worry about using primer. He finished with a clear coat to keep his work looking great for a long, long time.

James' Crested Arrow

It sounds too easy, but it really is that simple. As long as you can hold your hand steady, with the appropriate tools just about anyone can crest an arrow – and make it look awesome.

Let’s get into the weeds a little bit.

The art of cresting dates back (at least) hundreds of years, as a means of arrow identification. In the days when everything was made by hand and each arrow was a work of art, the very idea that someone else might walk off with your arrow was likely appalling.

Recently, however, cresting has become a way of personal expression. Many archers choose to forgo cresting entirely, but few can deny the appeal of an arrow with a crisp crest.

The most important thing to remember when cresting an arrow is to take your time. The easiest way to mess-up an arrow is to try and hurry through the cresting. As with every part of traditional archery, quality takes time.

Your crest can be as simple or as complex as you want. If this is your first time cresting an arrow it might be a good idea to practice on an old “throw-away” shaft. This way you can get a feel for what you’re doing. You could also just apply the crest to a cap warp, as they’re pretty easy to take off.

Before you apply your first coat of paint, you should remember to wipe down the shaft with the arrow prep. (Note: If you’re not going to use a cap wrap, then you should apply two coats of finish to your bare shaft. Wait until each coat of clear finish has dried, then gently rub the shaft with #0000 steel wool until it’s smooth.)

Next, put down a strip of blue painters tape on your crester and mark your cresting pattern (it might be a good idea to make each mark on the tape the color you want on your arrow – this way you can see if you like the color combination or not).

Next, if you plan to use any bright or metallic colors you should first lay down a base coat of white. This will save you some time later and will limit the number of coats. Remember, it’s better to have good prep work, than it is to just glob on the paint. It’s better to have several thin layers than it is to have one thick coat.

As you move forward to your first coat of color remember to clean your brush often. Clean your brush between each arrow and between every color. When you put your brush in your paint remember to try and get an even amount every time – otherwise you won’t have a consistent finish. As you apply the paint, try not to leave the brush on the shaft for an extended period of time, especially with fast-drying paints, because this can lead to a rough-looking finish.

After your base layer, begin applying your cresting pattern; start with your wider bands and move down to your thinner bands.

It’s a good idea to add a thin line to separate colors; this will give your crest a clean finished look. To do this, you’ll need a very fine pointed brush and a steady hand.

After the shaft has had plenty of time to dry, apply a clear coat over the crested areas. (Note: if you’re cresting a wood arrow you should apply a clear dip to the entire shaft.)

You’re done. Cresting is a simple way to make your arrows look great and to showcase your pride as a traditional archer.

James' Crested Arrow

By Jason Mills

Building Your Own Custom Arrows

By Jason D. Mills

Arrow building, like bow building, can be extremely satisfying. Arrow building, however, is much cheaper and easier to get started than bow building. Besides, every archer will need more arrows at some point, and crafting arrows can give the archer one more way to be connected with their beloved sport and enable them to be the master of every facet of their rig.

Not all shafts are created equal. That said, this build-along should help DIY-ers turn most carbon shafts into true-flying arrows.

Choosing your arrow

There are a few things you need to know before starting to build your arrows. First, you must know your draw length and draw weight. These two numbers will tell you what arrow spine you’ll be looking for. An arrow’s spine is how much the arrow flexes during flight. You want your arrow to recover as fast as possible, which means you want the correct spine. Ensuring you have the proper spine is arguably the most important thing to consider when choosing an arrow.

Finding your arrow length

Your draw length is the distance from the back of the bow (the point furthest from the shooter) at your grip to the maximum distance you draw the bow. Find your draw length by measuring your arm-span in inches from tip-to-tip of each middle finger and then divide that number by 2.5.

Pro-Tip: This is your draw length, not your arrow length.

If you have someone around to help, another, arguably more accurate, method you could use to find your draw length is by drawing back an extra-long arrow to full draw and having someone mark the arrow right in back of the handle. Measure the arrow from the mark to the deepest part of the nock groove. The measurement you get is your draw length.

Easton Draw Length Indicator Shaft

Finally, you could simply use the Easton Draw Length Indicator Shaft to check your draw length.

The next thing you need is your bow’s draw weight. If you don’t have hand held bow scale you’ll just have to go with what is written on your bow, which might not be the most accurate information. First, your bow’s draw weight can be as much as two to three pounds different for every inch of draw length. Second, bow manufactures are allowed to be two pounds off of what is printed on your bow, so your 45# bow could actually be 43# or 47#. This will affect your spine.

Using your hand held bow scale, draw the string until you hit your draw length and hold. Observe the weight on the scale. This is your actual bow peak weight.

Once you have determined your draw length and your actual bow peak weight you are ready to find your arrow length. It’s recommended that your arrow length be 1″-2″ longer than your draw length for the safety of keeping the arrow point outside the bow. Arrows that are less than the recommended arrow length can fall from the string, jam or otherwise cause damage to the arrow or the bow, and could even lead to personal injury.

If you had a friend help you mark the bow, simply add an inch or two to your mark and, voila, you’ve got your arrow length. If you used math to find your draw length, I’m afraid you’ll have to use math to find your arrow length too (that is unless you can find someone to help you mark an arrow while you’re at full draw).

Traditional Only Test Kit

Once you have your arrow length and actual bow peak weight, you are ready to select your correct arrow spine. For your benefit, we’ve created a handy chart for just that purpose. The 1/2″ marks over lap on the chart. That said, if you are on two different spines we highly recommend getting a test kit first.

Time to Cut Your Arrow Shafts

  • Wear safety glasses before cutting
  • Never touch the blade while it is moving

Lock your arrow saw in at your desired measurement

 Weston Precise Cut Arrow Saw

Pro-Tip: It’s a good idea to double check your measurement after each arrow, the lock can move

Ensure your nock is pushed flush against the lock at all times. Otherwise, you could end up with different sized arrows

As you cut your arrows, ensure you bring the arrow to the saw rotate it backward until it is cut all the way through

Squaring the arrow

Arrow Squaring DeviceFirst, lets square the arrow. The cutting process sometimes lead to an uneven edge. The blade can cause slight imperfections, which you won’t see until you put your insert into the arrow shaft or even when you go to spin test your arrows.

Pro-Tip: Let 3Rivers do the cut and mount for you when you buy your shafts. We can cut to length and mount inserts.

Place the arrow on your arrow square, putting the cut end flush against end of the square tool. Rotate each arrow for approximately 30 seconds.

Clean out the inside of the shaft to a depth of 1″ with a Q-tip and some clean water or acetone.

Glue the insert into the shaft Brass Point Inserts

  • Read warning and first aid instructions before use
  • Wear safety glasses
  • Do not handle inserts by gluing surfaces, doing so may lead to improper adhesion
  • Disposable gloves are recommended
  • Do not use heat directly on carbon

Bohning Insert IronWhile holding the insert, apply an even amount of glue onto the back half of the insert

Pro-Tip: You apply it to the back half because as you push the insert into the shaft it will push the glue forward onto the rest of the insert

Rotate the insert while pushing it into shaft

Pro-Tip: It helps to finish this process off by pressing the insert tightly against a table or other hard surface

Immediately clean off the excess glue

Installing the arrow wrap

Cap Wraps Arrow EnhancersInstall an arrow wrap for an instant arrow cap dips, but with no paint, no fumes, and no waiting. Arrow Cap wraps not only make your arrows look good, they make it easier to fletch and allow for easy re-fletching.

Peel cap wrap from backing

Place adhesive side up on a soft surface, such as a mouse pad

Align the edge of the cap wrap with the bottom of the nock

Press down and roll all the way through.

Fletching the Arrows

Bitzenburger Dial-O-Fletch Fletching Jig

In your fletching jig, nock down place the arrow firmly into the nock holder, if it’s not in the same place every time, you will end up with arrows with different fletchings

Holding the clamp in one hand, place the feather into the clamp Bohning Feather Fletching Tape– start the arrow about half way back in the clamp, open the clamp slightly and use your index finger to gently push the arrow the rest of the way into the clamp.

Line your fletching tape up with your fletching and cut to length. Apply the tape downward, the entire length of the feather. Use a knife beard trimming scissors to take off the fletching tape’s backing. Install the clamp onto the fletching jig and apply downward pressure. Repeat these steps to apply all of your fletchings.Bohning Fletch-Tite Platinum Fletching Glue

Although you have the option of using glue, fletching tape is cleaner and simpler

Time for the spin test

Large Spin Tester

Place your arrow on the spin tester and rotate the arrow backward. You will want to watch the broadhead end and the fletching end – you should see a perfect spin. If you see any wobble it means that something was off during the arrow building process.

Weigh the arrows

 3Rivers Digital Pocket Grain Scale

Turn on your arrow scale and place an arrow holder onto the scale; zero out the scale to ensure the holder isn’t included in your measurements

Arrow Holder for Digital Scale

Place the middle of the arrow on the arrow holder

Using a permanent marker, write the grain weight on your arrow

Pro-Tip: It makes sense to write the arrow’s grain on one of the fletchings or the wrap, so you can see it easily

Repeat this process for all of your new arrows

Congratulations! You’ve just built your own custom arrows.

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