SRF Sight System Buyer's Guide
SRF Sight System
Theory and use of the SRF sight:
This sight uses the eyes natural ability to center objects much as a round aperture does. Unlike a round aperture though, this shaped aperture allows you to memorize target positions along the tapered shape. The sight must be used until that memorization occurs and becomes natural. In that respect it is very similar to instinctive shooting. Once you reach that point, the sight becomes extremely fast and automatic to use. That is why there are no marks on the sight and no numbers. Adding marks defeats the function of the sight. Proper use of the sight makes it extremely deadly at unmarked yardages. With all other sights, you must go through the thought process of judging the distance. Then you must decide which pin to use. If the range falls between pins, you must decide where in between to hold. While you are figuring all this out, the deer is heading over a distant hill. It is one reason why shooting running game with most sights just doesn’t work. With the SRF you are shooting with an instinctive sight picture, so the proper hold is instantaneous.
There are only two adjustments to make with the sight. The first is to align the center (the widest part) of the sight vertically with your reference range. Normally this will be around 20 to 25 yards for most people. Since there are no marks to calibrate, it doesn’t matter if the range ends up being 21 or 24. All you are doing is setting it close to the middle range you shoot. The aperture chosen must be based on the ranges you intend to shoot. Those ranges must all be within the aperture. If your aperture has a long and short end, the long end goes down. The proper aperture will allow you to frame every target within your shooting range. The next adjustment is the right/left centering. Once this is done, no further adjustments are needed. Just take it out and shoot.
In the beginning you will have to think about where to hold the sight for different ranges. Remember, you have to learn to use this sight! I don’t even bother shooting at marked ranges. I just judge the range, hold the sight where it belongs, and let go. Your concentration should always be on the target, and the sight should be in your secondary vision. I suggest starting out shooting at a large bale target until you get a feel for using the sight at different ranges. Then practice with the sight by stump shooting, 3D, hunting, etc. As you get used to the sight, you will find that it will slip farther and farther into your peripheral vision and consciousness. When this happens you have arrived!
A word about anchor point:
For all types of barebow shooting the arrow is the primary alignment tool. To shoot effectively the arrow should be directly under the eye. The fact is though, that for many that is very difficult to do because of facial structure. I believe that has been a limiting factor in my shooting. Using the SRF sight, the arrow plays no part in the aiming process, so that allows you to utilize a more natural anchor and adjust the sight accordingly. This has improved my alignment, backtension, and consistency.
1. Shots seem inconsistent: Most often this is caused by looking at the sight rather than concentrating on the target. The SRF is actually not a sight in the usual sense, It is a reference frame, much like the arrow provides a reference. For it to work you have to trust it, and give it time.
2. Tend to release before the proper sight picture is attained: My technique for using the sight is to draw with the sight over the target. As I reach full draw, I slowly lower the sight over the target and acquire the picture and release. It all happens very quickly, but it is very controlled.
3. Arrows group, but not on the target: This could just be a matter of adjusting the sight. It could also be that you have discovered a flaw in your form. For Instance: If it seems fine, but then your shots start going low and right, you may be dropping your bow arm at release. There are many what-ifs here, but it most likely is not the fault of the sight.
One of the unique features of this sight is that it can be mounted either in a conventional slotted bracket or directly in the sight window above the arrow rest! This later choice requires that you know the proper placement, so you can drill the hole properly. The centershot of your bow may force the sight too far out, so that is another aspect that must be checked before drilling. Most people will do best with a bracket designed for this sight. There are several options for DAS custom bows listed under “sight and quiver brackets”. The DAS/3 Rivers "Dalaa", and most other bows can use the universal mounting bracket listed on the sight page. The sight can be mounted on either the back or belly side of the bow.
Choosing the correct sight:
There are 3 questions you must answer to choose the proper sight profile and finish:
1. What ranges do I want to shoot with this sight?
Decide what range of distances you want to cover with the sight. Use a set of sight pins or some temporary sight set-up to find the pin settings needed for your minimum and maximum distances. A couple of sewing pins held with tape works well. Measure the distance between the pins.
If the distance is between 1/2" and 3/4", select the “A” profile
If the distance is between 13/16” and 1 1/8” , select the “B” profile
If the distance is between 1 3/16”” and 1 5/16”, select the “C” profile
2. Will the sight work with my anchor?
Extremely high or low anchors may force the sight into the top or bottom of the sight window and lead to arrow interference or window interference. Once you have pins in place from your test, allow at least 1/8” to 3/16” more at top and bottom. If an interference occurs, you will have to change anchor point or choose a smaller, more range limited sight profile.
3. Do I need the Lume coating?
This is a more personal question, but the coating would be nice if you hunt under thick canopies or in the very early/late hours. If your night vision is good, chances are the all black sight is the best choice. If you have some trouble in low light, the lume coating will solve the problem nicely. Two instances though make the lume very nice. Shooting at dusk against a dark background, and walking out of the bright sun into deep shade. You can really pick that lume sight up fast then.