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Gordon's Bo-Tuff Fiberglass - Clear |
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Item Number: 4475X
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Price: $23.50 - $26.50
(Depending upon options selected.)
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Full Product Info |
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Product Ratings & Reviews |
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Ask A Question |
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Q: I have a maple backed red oak bow that I made, but there is a small crack in the maple that occurred after the bow had been finished. If I were to sand off the finish on the back of the bow, would this fiberglass work to stop the bow from breaking? Asked on 5/17/2013 by Dave from Hartland, WI Know the answer? Answer this question 5 answers A: The fiber glass will help for sure but I can not guarantee that will not continue to hold up. Answered on 5/20/2013 by Clint from 3Rivers Archery A: Yes it will if, the crack is not to sever & does not go off the edge of the bow. If it does go off the edge of the bow, first put a tillering string on the bow so the crack opens just a little, then fill it with tight bond 3. Then after the glue has cured, sand it & cover it with fiberglass & your bow should be fine. Make sure to use the 2 part, three rivers recommend glue, to glue the fiberglass to the bow. Next time you make a bow I highly recommend using hickory as your backing. The longer grain makes it stronger. -Joseph Frye Bold Archery Design Answered on 5/17/2013 by Joseph the bold from Jeffersonville n.y. A: I would not do that. The best in my experience is to back the whole bow with strap sinew bonded with liquid hide glue. When dry, varnish to keep the moisture out. Incredible how the most problematic bow can be saved with that procedure. Tawfiq Ibrahim http://independent.academia.edu/TawfiqIbrahim Answered on 5/17/2013 by Anonymous A: Yes it can but no guarantee and use rapin Sent from my Kyocera Hydro Answered on 5/17/2013 by bamboowarrior from mt. pleasent SC A: Yes, you could back it with fiberglass. It may stiffen the bow some and may need tillering to lighten it back up. Sent from my iPhone Answered on 5/17/2013 by Anonymous
Q: I am making a 64" D shaped longbow. I am using a red oak core with cedar laminations. It's all under this clear fiberglass. I needed to know how long my riser should be. I had planed for a 16 inch riser. Is this okay? Asked on 1/29/2013 by special kay Know the answer? Answer this question 6 answers A: Hi Folks. Yes 16 inches riser for a 64 inches long bow is good. Usually the riser size goes from 22,5% to 26,5% of the bow lenght. Answered on 2/8/2013 by Wander from Brazil A: Yeah 16 is good for tha riser Sent from my Kyocera Hydro Answered on 1/29/2013 by Anonymous A: Hi, My r/d d shaped longbow @ 64" uses a 17" riser. You are in ball park but may have to build a couple. Good luck. Ron Answered on 1/29/2013 by Anonymous A: The longer your riser is, the shorter your limbs will be, unless your bow will bend through the riser. Shorter limbs have to bend more and therefore they make for a heavier bow. In making a D-bow, I recommend making it as with limbs as long as possible to reduce shock and increase flexibility. When fiberglass is used properly you get away with very short limbs and a very large riser, in some cases bigger than the limbs, but the fiberglass needs to be wide. There may be a member on here who give a more mathematical explanation. Answered on 1/29/2013 by Anonymous A: Yes, 16" should be plenty long for the riser. Since you are making the bow yourself there are not any rules that you have to follow. Though most longbows will have a 15" to 16" riser. Answered on 1/29/2013 by Justin from 3Rivers Archery A: Should be fine. I'd make sure the ends of the riser are tapered equally thin so that the limbs flex symmetrically. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone Answered on 1/29/2013 by Anonymous
Q: can you use fiberglass drywall tape on your osage boards? Asked on 8/30/2012 by rusty from Portsmouth Ohio Know the answer? Answer this question 4 answers A: Yes, you can. Stagger layers of it and spread your glue evenly over the entire back. Many people use Titebonnd III for this. FG tape makes a very strong backing and an unusual looking bow. You may want to pain the backing if you don't like the look of it. Answered on 8/30/2012 by Anonymous A: You can use any backing you wish. However, I would not recommend fiberglass drywall tape. If you are simply wishing to keep the back of the bow from splintering and pulling apart, I would use silk or linen. Personally I like to use bamboo or hickory. Sometimes I use maple too, but bamboo is my favorite. Sent from my iPhone Answered on 8/31/2012 by Anonymous A: Im pretty sure u can. If you go online to Poor Folk Bows, Sam Harper builds a red oak board bow with drywall tape. The bow build is Making a red oak board bow and he starts it on pg 5. Hope that mite help ya Answered on 8/31/2012 by Anonymous A: You could but it would not look as nice. I would recommend to use our hickory backing or the Bamboo backing so that you will gain some performance from the backing. Answered on 9/5/2012 by Art from 3Rivers Archery
Q: I am planning on using this to back a wood laminate bow using EA-40 epoxy. Will the glass be clear? Prior to gluing the glass is quite cloudy. Will that clear up? Asked on 8/22/2012 by Mark in Reno from Reno, NV Know the answer? Answer this question 2 answers A: yeah it should clear up, just make sure theres no loose debris on the cloudy part and you should be fine. Also if you mask the shiny side prior to glue up youll save yourself some headaches. Answered on 8/22/2012 by Anonymous A: Yes, that should all clear up. Just make sure to wipe everything down with acetone before applying the adhesive and to keep all debris clear of the area. Answered on 8/23/2012 by Justin from 3Rivers Archery
Q: Im interested in making a Hickory long bow and would like to have this on the belly and the back of the bow, would it be suitable to add this to the back of the bow, then after tillering on the belly? I would be using your Hickory dimensional lumber Asked on 7/3/2012 by Jonathan Michelin from NorthWest River,NL Know the answer? Answer this question 3 answers A: I have used the black and clear glass on the back of several longbows and it works like a charm. Make sure, as you said, to tiller AFTER applying the glass to the back. I have yet to put glass on the belly of any bow, but I'm sure I will. I usually use hickory (back) and red oak (belly). Red oak is supposed to be good under compression. I use Smooth On epoxy to glue the laminates and glass. Good luck. Answered on 7/5/2012 by Mark A: It sounds like you are kind of wanting to make a semi-selfbow. If so, you should use a different wood, such as osage or ipe. However, if you are wanting to make a fiberglass laminated bow with glass on the back and belly and you want to use hickory, it would be best if you made laminations out of your hickory and do the glue up of the back and belly at the same time. The reason is, if you try to tiller the belly first it will likely round out or make the belly uneven. The surface needs to be near perfectly flat before you can glue fiberglass on it. If it is rounded or uneven you will have gaps between the wood and the fiberglass. After glue up, you would tiller by trimming the width of the limbs and rounding the edges. Answered on 7/6/2012 by EnochwalkedwithGod from Ohio A: I wouldn't recommend doing that, if you just back the bow with it you will be better off. Answered on 7/5/2012 by Dave from 3Rivers Archery
Q: Since you can see through it, do you want to finish the back of the bow with stain and laquer before applying the glass? I would be using this to back a self-bow prior to tillering. Thanks. Asked on 6/4/2012 by Mark from Reno, NV Know the answer? Answer this question 3 answers A: If you want to alter the color of the original wood, you should apply the stain prior to gluing the glass on. Once the glass is on, you cannot stain the back of the bow. If you are backing the bow with clear glass, there is no need to put laquer on the back of the bow prior to glueing the glass on. In fact, I would recommend that you do not put laquer on the back before gluing because it would weaken the bond between the glass and the wood. If you do decide to stain the back of the bow prior to putting glass on, be sure to wipe all of the excess stain off and then make sure you wait at least three days before gluing the glass on. Failure to do so could prevent a proper bond between the glass and the wood. Answered on 6/6/2012 by Anonymous A: If you are going to stain the bow do it before putting the glass on. Put the sealer on when the bow is complete. Answered on 6/5/2012 by Dave from 3Rivers Archery A: It's ok to stain the wood before applying the clear fiberglass although the darker the stain the more any slight glue fault will show. I use alchol based stains, water based raises a fluff on the wood and Oil based may cause a adhesion problem with the glue. Do not spray your finish on the wood then glue on the glass. Spray your finish on the glass when complete, rough up the glass a bit with 220 grit then 320 grit after rounding over the edges for best results. W. Michael Ballenger Owner & Bowyer 7 Lakes Longbows 1161 7 Lks North Seven Lakes, NC 27376 http://www.7lakeslongbow.com Answered on 6/5/2012 by 7 Lakes
Q: Just for knowledge sake...how many strips would I need of this product to construct a 100% fiberglass bow: 50# @ 28"? Asked on 4/1/2012 by Kill'r B from Ebenezer, AL Know the answer? Answer this question 1 answer A: Typically every .01 of material will increase the weight of the bow by about 10#. you would be looking at 3 to 4 pieces to create a 50# bow around 64", This is an estimate. The actual weight of the bow will change depending on width and form. The fiberglass will also not hold its shape as well so it will be more difficult to do any sort of reflex/deflex. I do recommend that you use some sort of wooden core for performance. Answered on 4/2/2012 by Justin from 3Rivers Archery
Q: how many are in one odore Asked on 3/24/2012 by butch from kernersville nc Know the answer? Answer this question 2 answers A: They are sold in single strips. Answered on 3/27/2012 by Clint from 3Rivers Archery A: One strip of fiberglass comes per order. Answered on 3/27/2012 by Patchy from Seattle, WA
Q: 1. Is the UL or ULS Bow Tuff Glass? 2. Is there an extra shipping cost for this item? I did not see the symbol for extra shipping in your catalog. Tks. Asked on 2/7/2012 by Mike from Mahone Bay, NS, Canada Know the answer? Answer this question 1 answer A: Our fiberglass is uni directional with out scrim. There is not extra shipping charge for a few pieces. If you order 10 or more there can extra shipping and handling charges. Answered on 2/9/2012 by Justin from 3Rivers Archery
Q: could you tell me who manufactures these fiberglass ? thanks Asked on 12/10/2011 by jie from Buffalo NY Know the answer? Answer this question 1 answer A: All of our glass is Gorden's Bo Tuff. Answered on 12/14/2011 by Art from 3Rivers Archery
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