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Black Fiberglass |
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Item Number: 4474X
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Price: $17.50 - $18.50
(Depending upon options selected.)
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Full Product Info |
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Product Ratings & Reviews |
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Ask A Question |
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Q: im making a red oak board bow and want to add these fiberglass lams to the belly and back for increased performance, would i be able to make the belly perfectly flat and have this work without the bow coming out super light? Asked on 3/1/2013 by eric Know the answer? Answer this question 3 answers A: Yes, the fiberglass will add a lot of weight to the bow. It should more than make up for any material you will take off of the Oak. Answered on 3/1/2013 by Justin from 3Rivers Archery A: Yes! And that sounds like a very good idea. I may just have to try that myself. There isnt any good Way to get really close to your goal draw weight but There are some charts that help. The limbs will have to Be pretty thin if you are putting fiberglass on the belly as Well. Just be careful to make sure you dont round the edges While thinning the lams! Good luck! Answered on 3/1/2013 by Anonymous A: Yes you can but you may have to add more layers to tha belly for more draw weight Sent from my Kyocera Hydro Answered on 3/1/2013 by Anonymous
Q: I recently made a bow. The draw weight is 15# @ 28". Limbs are 27" tip to fade(26" nock to fade). The bow is 72" tip to tip and 70" nock to nock. The width at the tip is about 1/2". It tapers out to 1 1/2". The taper is 15" from the tip down the limbs. If I added fiberglass to the bow on the back and the belly (removing the current fiberglass tape with titebond) could I expect a significant improvement on the draw weight of the bow? If so, what would could be expected? This was my first bow and hoped it would be closer to 35-45#. If it would get me to the 30ish mark I would be verry pleased. Asked on 1/2/2013 by BoldNight the noob from Cleveland, TN Know the answer? Answer this question 2 answers A: If you add fiberglass to that bow you could see an increase of up to 50#. If you retiller the bow afterwards you should be able to get close to your range. Answered on 1/4/2013 by Justin from 3Rivers Archery A: BoldNight; Yep, re-glassing the bow will change the draw weight, and the lighter .040" glass will give the lightest increase. HOWEVER--- the thickness of the core lams has a HUGE impact on this. That core should not be over .160" for a 30 lb bow with .040 glass. (double the core thickness, and you square the draw weight) I'm heading for .160" core with the .050" glass, and will shave the limbs from about 3" beyond the fades to drop it to 50#-55# max on a 64" Pearson-style recurve I'm making now. Hope this helps. TinHorn Redding, Ca Answered on 1/3/2013 by Anonymous
Q: Is heat always required to glue this fiberglass to wood laminates? Is there another glue besides Smooth On EA-40 one could use? Thanks! Asked on 12/30/2012 by Sid Know the answer? Answer this question 7 answers A: Hello. Heat is not always needed. However, Smooth On and several of the other epoxies ordinarily used to bond glass to wood cure faster and with a greater heat resistance when heat is used. This is similar to ceramics. You can, however, allow the epoxy to cure at room temperature. If you do, you should wait at least 24 hours before stressing it in the least. There are other epoxies that can be used. West Marine Supply makes a two part epoxy and there are several others. I believe 3 rivers even sells one or more other epoxies that can be used. I think, however, what you will find is that the other epoxies tend to cost more and all work on the same basis as Smooth On. You have to have an epoxy for fiberglass that cures hard, but flexible, and that has high heat resistance. Have a great day, Michael Answered on 1/2/2013 by EnochwalkedwithGod from Ohio A: By the way, there is other epoxies but none as good as EA-40. You will save a lot of heartache by going with Smooth-On. Sent from my iPad Answered on 1/1/2013 by BowHunter from Missouri A: This may be a bit late. All epoxies tend to melt at temperatures above their cure temp. It would be a disaster to have your bow de-laminate if you left it in an enclosed auto in the middle of summer. Having a heat box is great insurance. I built mine using backed styrofoam, heat lamps, and a milk barn hot water heater thermostat, (160 degrees) didn't cost much, works great. Sent from my iPad Answered on 1/1/2013 by Anonymous A: smooth on will cure eventually without heat, but I would not advise it for bows. My concern would be in storage or in a car with even moderate temperature with windows up etc.. it may de-laminate. I always cure with heat. Taxidermists use it in deer ears and I do some also, but it kind of stats soft or flexible when not heat cured. Answered on 12/31/2012 by Anonymous A: You don't have to use heat it just helps the bow if you was to get in to some hot weather from delaminating. Answered on 12/31/2012 by Clint from 3Rivers Archery A: There are lots of different epoxy type glues you can use and heat is mot always required. It just depends on what epoxy you use. Some guys have had success going to a local hardware store and using common 2 ton flow mix epoxy. I hope this helps Answered on 12/30/2012 by Anonymous A: Sid, I've glued on 20 black glass laminates with Smooth on EA-40 and have only had one come undone. Be sure you really rough up the back side of the glsas to get a good bond as well as the surface to which you will laminate. The one that failed was due to the glass being too smooth. Also use painters blue tape on the finish side to keep it protected. Smooth on may seem expensive but I've used it on countless other projects and it's well worth the $ spent. Good Luck Answered on 12/30/2012 by half strung from santa barbara
Q: It seems like most people are using this for backing or in laminations. Is it possible to use this in place of horn to make a quasi-horn bow? Does anyone know what the compression characteristics are for this? Thanks! Asked on 12/10/2012 by jonesj26 from Ohio Know the answer? Answer this question 1 answer A: Fiberglass works much better as a backing than a belly material. If you want something that will perform closer to horn I would recommend something like phenolic, carbon, or possibly Ipe or another very dense wood. Answered on 12/11/2012 by Justin from 3Rivers Archery
Q: if i add the .040 or .050 too 68 to 70 long. how mutch stringth will each add to a bows draw ?? and the hickery backing backing strip,how mutch will it add ??? Asked on 10/31/2012 by william tell the natural from birmingham alabama Know the answer? Answer this question 3 answers A: Sounds like you are experiencing a very typical quandary. It is a difficult question not knowing how thick your backing is, amount if taper, etc. however, generally, you will wind up with 50-55 pounds with .40 and 55-60 phones with .50 if all things are typical for a bow of your length. The beauty of making your own bow I'd that you can always till the bow to reduce it's draw weight but be careful, you can never add it back Sent from my iPhone Answered on 11/2/2012 by Anonymous A: I am not quite sure exactly what your question is. However, the difference between .04 and .05 glass is approximately 10 pounds of draw weight, assuming glass on both the belly and back of the bow. However, you should be aware that the total draw weight of a laminated bow is a function of both the thickness and width of the limbs, as well as the design of the bow (including limb length). Of course, the thickness of the limbs has a greater impact on draw weight than the width of the limbs.. With regard to what poundage a hickory backing will add to the draw weight of the bow, as noted above, it really depends on the thickness of the hickory backing. If you are hoping to prevent a selfbow from breaking, backing the bow with hickory or some other material will significantly help. Answered on 11/2/2012 by EnochwalkedwithGod from Ohio A: Any time that you add to the thickness of the bow you will increase the poundage. By putting a piece of fiberglass on that bow it will probably put you over 100#. Answered on 11/1/2012 by Justin from 3Rivers Archery
Q: What is the best way to reduce the thickness of fiberglass? (preferably with a simple hand tool) Also, is fiberglass dust a health hazard? Asked on 7/9/2012 by ! from ! Know the answer? Answer this question 4 answers A: The best way I've found is an oscillating spindle sander with an adjustable fence. I fabricated mine. The dust is very hazardous, protect breathing, eyes and long sleeves. Sent from my iPhone Answered on 7/9/2012 by Anonymous A: The only way that I know of using hand tools to thin fibergalss is with sandpaper. With fiberglass adhered to a bow I use 80 grit with a sanding block, then 100 and 200 grit. If I'm not using a finish over the glass, I will sand down to 500 or more depending on how much gloss I want. An orbital sander will lbe faster, but not necessarily easier if the bow has deep curves. Fiberglass won't kill you, but it does irritate skin, eyes, and lungs. Imagine it as microscopic shards of glass. When sanding it, use eye protection, a heavy duty dust mask, gloves, and long sleeves. If your skin comes in contact with the dust, soak soak your skin in warm soapy water. Don't try to rub the dust off, you might end up scratching the dust into your skin causing irritation. Some people are more sensitive to fiberglass particles than other, but no one wants it in their lungs! Answered on 7/9/2012 by Anonymous A: Thickness can be reduced with a commercial drum sander. I've checked them out and most companies want you to pay for the sanding belt as the fiberglass eats it up in no time. Another alternative though not as accurate is to use a flex pad with 80 grit on it on a 7 inch grinder. One mistake though and the fiberglass is junk. Fiberglass dust is like inhaling millions of small needles, need I say more. I use all the respirators and a powerful fan to blow the dust away from the project, not sure where it ends up. Answered on 7/9/2012 by Anonymous A: With a hand tool the best way to reduce material from the fiber glass is with sandpaper and a sanding block. You will want to use eye protection, a respirator along with good ventilation and a long sleeve shirt when sanding fiberglass because you will not want to inhale any or get it on your bare skin. fiberglass can be a health hazard if the proper safety equipment is not used. Answered on 7/10/2012 by Art from 3Rivers Archery
Q: Hi. Is it avaible for 130 cm laminated turkish bow. I will use it for sinew(front of the bow) Asked on 3/27/2012 by Anonymous Know the answer? Answer this question 1 answer A: That length is just shy of 52" and these pieces come 72" in length. You should have more than enough to work on your Turkish bow. We do not have any fiberglass made for that specific application. I would recommend getting the 1 3/4" width. Answered on 4/2/2012 by Justin from 3Rivers Archery
Q: Can you add this glass to a floor tillered stave that has already been tapered, and shave it down to match the limb profile? Asked on 2/24/2012 by Anonymous Know the answer? Answer this question 1 answer A: Gordons .040 or .050 black fiberglass has a high tension strength and could cause the belly of the stave to compression fracture or chrysalls in most cases. This would not be recommended for selfbows and should be used for bows that use glass on both the back and the belly of the bow. Linen or fiberglass cloth would be a better choice for backing the stave if it requires a backing. Answered on 2/28/2012 by Dean from 3Rivers Archery
Q: What type of glass is this? Asked on 2/16/2012 by ThadJB from Albuquerque, NM Know the answer? Answer this question 1 answer A: Made by Gordons Composites "F" glass. Answered on 2/17/2012 by Dean from 3Rivers Archery
Q: will a fiberglass backed selfbow of a given weight be faster than an unbacked bow of the same weight? In otherwords, if I am building a 50# hickory selfbow, will backing with fiberglass make it faster, or simply more durable? Will attaching snakeskin to the fiberglass backing cause any problems? Asked on 1/3/2012 by Anonymous Know the answer? Answer this question 1 answer A: Fiberglass backing will not add any speed top your selfbow. The fiberglass will just help hold the bow together. If you have left the cambium layer on the back of the bow there will be no reason to use the fiberglass for backing. You can use the snake skin on the fiberglass or just the bow with no problems. Answered on 1/4/2012 by Art from 3Rivers Archery
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